Bouldering Grades Explained
Most bouldering walls use some sort of grading system in order to indicate how hard a boulder problem is, but for new climbers the terms can be really confusing!
The V-Scale
Most gyms use the V-scale which starts at V0 and goes up to V17. Beginners start with V0 to V2, intermediate climbers can expect to find problems at V4 to V6 and advanced climbers start to get really hard at V8 upwards. Most recreational climbers are at a grade of V3 to V6.
The Fontainebleau Scale
There is also the Fontainebleau scale, commonly used in some bouldering gyms and outdoor bouldering spots around the world. The grades start from 4 and increase up to 8a and higher, but the lower grades (4 to 5) are equivalent to V0 to V2 on the V-Scale, and the middle grades (6a to 6c) are equivalent to V3 to V5 on the V-Scale.
Colour-Coded Holds
At most gyms bouldering problems are graded but climbers are also marked with colour coded holds that indicate the problems that are of a certain standard. Each gym has its own system of what each colour means, and as a newcomer to climbing at UDX it is best to look at the Bouldering page that explains the colour coding of the holds at UDX.
Grades as a Training Tool
Most people do not use bouldering grades as a means to score, instead use them as a guideline. Typically, climbers will look for a grade where they complete most of the problems cleanly, and every now and then attempt a problem or two above that. This gap between your current level and your limit is where you will see the most improvement in your climbing technique.
Why the Same Grade Feels Different
The way problems are set can greatly affect how difficult they feel, so a V3 could feel very different from one problem to another. While the grades on walls give you a rough guide as to what to expect, they should not be used as a definitive way of judging a problem.
Once you know the grading system, the grades are a map to help you and show you the way to improve rather than a way for someone to judge you.
